Failed or unusable prints

[hasd81]

Hey there, I've had the solus for over a year now maybe even longer. I have had zero to no luck getting consistency with usable prints. Im using b9 Emerald. I have almost given up on this printer and I'm hoping some one can give me some sort of guidance on how to actually get this think to make me money. Im now on my third bottle of resin with about 3 half decent castings in over a year. I have replaced the film twice, upgraded step motor and the adjustable mount. the prints are never good ether failed or an imperfection so bad it would take hours to fix in metal. PLEASE HELP i'm days from fixing this printer with a sledge hammer!

[mongerdesigns]

First of all. Can't you print those dogtags laying down flat on the build plate without any supports? Unless there is details on the back?

You have used 3 bottles of resin and only replaced the film twice in 2 years? It's possible you're printing on damaged film, and that can cause issues. I usually replace the film every few weeks (if I print a lot), and I'm super careful with it not to damage it.

Which projector do you have? Have you checked your projector settings?

Have you downloaded the latest version of the software and re-calibrated your grid and make sure it's in focus?

Print this sample ring and let us know how it comes out. No supports needed for this one. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fy1dwwa081q5 ... hgDPa?dl=0

[nzfinescale]

This is primarily just by way of friendly encouragement...

A DLP printer isn't exactly a consumer or even a commercial machine in my opinion. The Solus is a very cost effective unit capable of extremely good things, BUT a degree of experience, knowledge and skill are required to get the best out of it. Basic prints are simple enough, but as one starts to push the envelope a bit the failure rate can creep up. In my experience that is more about how far I'm pushing the envelope rather than a machine problem. The other thing I recognise in my own situation is that I do not have full control of all variables - especially in casting and curing, and so some issues occur there for me.

In the 18 months I've had my printer I have had fantastic results - but also my share of failures like yours.

I've learned that at every layer the model is ripped from the film. There are forces involved in this which are the root cause of a number of problems affected by a number of variables. These include: The model. Resin type/age. Exposure. Initial layer exposure. Build plate setting. Support structures. Lamp age. Film condition. Film tension. Model orientation. Lift speed, delay, lift height. It is, of course, possible to optimise these things but cost, time, model quality, fine detail and other factors tend to drive in the other direction which means your personal sweet spot needs to be found.

So If I'm having problems:

• I try to think about what may have happened in the process as that guides the solution. In your case the model is distorted suggesting supports aren't up to the task. Did those short supports fail to print, or have they broken off?

• Films can last a long time, but new films do give better results. New film peels easier I think - thus less force. New films also give better surface finish

• Test a simple model. If that's OK, then the problem is with the original model/support

• Clean the vat and use fresh resin. I've had good results from resin that's been sitting in the vat for a couple of weeks, BUT it does behave differently to fresh.

• I tend to run low exposure for sharper detail, but this gives weaker models that can break. Increasing exposure may solve that.

• I tend to run low initial layer exposure, but that can lead to the model detaching

• Supports are mechanical. Make sure they are strong enough

• Exposures need to increase as the lamp ages

• As noted in other posts, a build plate zero of around 0.5mm is better than the recommended

• Make sure the process has time to happen as designed. With Emerald a delay of 2s allows the resin time to flow. If your film is a bit loose a greater lift height ensures the film separates at every layer.

• I'd consider printing the dog tag on edge. Inclined, maybe, with heavy supports - easily removed from the side edge later.

Above all, be confident that there is a solution. Unfortunately finding it may be a bit frustrating.

Lawrence

[hasd81]

First of all. Can't you print those dogtags laying down flat on the build plate without any supports? Unless there is details on the back?

You have used 3 bottles of resin and only replaced the film twice in 2 years? It's possible you're printing on damaged film, and that can cause issues. I usually replace the film every few weeks (if I print a lot), and I'm super careful with it not to damage it.

Which projector do you have? Have you checked your projector settings?

Have you downloaded the latest version of the software and re-calibrated your grid and make sure it's in focus?

Print this sample ring and let us know how it comes out. No supports needed for this one. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fy1dwwa081q5 ... hgDPa?dl=0

The Tags do have details on the back. Its my third film in 18months and just cracked my third bottle. My frustration level is up there. I know this machine can do it, it just hasn't for me!

[Messerbr]

When the vat is screwed in place are you able to slide it around a bit or does it stick at all to the quartz? The way your print failed looks very similar to a problem I had with having the film stick to the quartz and my vat tension was a little too tight. If you havent tried this already, these lens cleaning wipes helped me out a lot with making sure there was no residue between the bottom of the film and the quartz. (Link to Zeiss Lens Wipes)

[rsaldivar]

see if you can get a sample of the blue resin , longer to cure , but grows much easier than the green

[hasd81]

When the vat is screwed in place are you able to slide it around a bit or does it stick at all to the quartz? The way your print failed looks very similar to a problem I had with having the film stick to the quartz and my vat tension was a little too tight. If you havent tried this already, these lens cleaning wipes helped me out a lot with making sure there was no residue between the bottom of the film and the quartz. (Link to Zeiss Lens Wipes)

Not sure what you mean by screwed in? when i tighten the thumb screws the vat is locked in place how could it move?

[hasd81]

First of all. Can't you print those dogtags laying down flat on the build plate without any supports? Unless there is details on the back?

You have used 3 bottles of resin and only replaced the film twice in 2 years? It's possible you're printing on damaged film, and that can cause issues. I usually replace the film every few weeks (if I print a lot), and I'm super careful with it not to damage it.

Which projector do you have? Have you checked your projector settings?

Have you downloaded the latest version of the software and re-calibrated your grid and make sure it's in focus?

Print this sample ring and let us know how it comes out. No supports needed for this one. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fy1dwwa081q5 ... hgDPa?dl=0

Thanks for your advice, i just got back in to town and I'm going to figure this thing out! I'm using a optima HD37 @42. I'm going to replace the film right now. can you re-send me the settings that in needs to be I'm having a real hard time getting the grid to square and focus.

[Jewelermdt]

Not sure what you mean by screwed in? when i tighten the thumb screws the vat is locked in place how could it move?

He is asking if when you put your vat on the table, does it stick to the quarts? If it's super clean you should be able to move the vat around easily. If it sticks to the glass, then you have resin residue on it. You may not be able to see it. This will effect the tilt operation and separation between layers. Can cause fails and uneven builds. Also you don't need to screw down the vat too tight. Just snug. You will need to tighten more the longer you print with it due to the film stretching.
Check the platform for sitting flat to the table, all four corners are tight. Watch videos for correct procedure. Hope you are using the Contour software. Very easy now to adjust the grid square.

[hasd81]

Not sure what you mean by screwed in? when i tighten the thumb screws the vat is locked in place how could it move?

He is asking if when you put your vat on the table, does it stick to the quarts? If it's super clean you should be able to move the vat around easily. If it sticks to the glass, then you have resin residue on it. You may not be able to see it. This will effect the tilt operation and separation between layers. Can cause fails and uneven builds. Also you don't need to screw down the vat too tight. Just snug. You will need to tighten more the longer you print with it due to the film stretching.
Check the platform for sitting flat to the table, all four corners are tight. Watch videos for correct procedure. Hope you are using the Contour software. Very easy now to adjust the grid square.

Thanks for the advise, The new update is nice unfortunately it seam that once I pull the top corner up the lines disappear. Its almost maxed out i would say?