Need help BAD

[OpedHead]

I need help BAD...

I have been using my Solus at least 2 months now and I can not get accurate prints out of it, or even, consistent un accurate, but, un failed prints and I'm getting close to looking for refund unless I can get this sorted out soon as this is really messing with my business and pushing all my work back... but I would much much rather get this sorted out

These are the typical results I’ve been achieving.

Failed print 1

Failed print 2

Failed print 3

I was making supports on matrix with their built-in tools, then I tried running them through netfabb which found faults in models I had already printed previously with ok results, but still no change. Now I am using the built in Solus support builder which works great.

I won't rule it out, but I don't think it's the supports. As when I really need a file printed, I'll put 3-6 of the same model with shit loads of supports, and I'll still I'll be lucky to get 1 repairable enough to use. But the failures will be in different spots, or sometimes they fail whilst making the supports (before it gets to the item itself)

I'm starting to believe it could be due to, or partly due to the resin. Though I haven't done anything I believe could have compromised it, but I'll explain my process in case it is.
My Process:
- I really really thoroughly stir the resin in the bottle with a long plastic stick for around 5mins in darkness, then recap the bottle and shake the absolute fuck out of it while rotating direction I hold and shake it.
- I pour approx 20-25% of the bottle into one of those clip top, air tight soup tupperware's which I have duct taped the lid to block light (the sides are already opaque). This is my 'working' resin container.
- After setting up a print on Contour, I remove the VAT and the build head. If there is resin from a last print I have a sift I put over the working resin container and I pour the resin through the sift, using the silicon spatula and PEC pad from underneath the film to clean and massage off cured parts, which I bin or pour through the sift.
- With isopropyl and a PEC pad I'll clean the quartz, then the build head, then I shake and mix the resin the working container while the alcohol evaporates.
- I then install the VAT without resin, because I feel the weight from the resin might warp/distort the lens film while trying to move it into position on the quartz. Once in place I pour in resin to the max line.
- I install the build head then print

* I never just stir the resin in the VAT and reprint. Mostly because I haven't had a single 100% successful print, but also as I couldn't guarantee if I did that there would be no floaties anyway

- Every few prints or when it needs it I clean the lens and the window to the printer. I also make sure the VAT film is clean and un damaged and the build head is roughly sanded.

Post Print Process.

- After removing prints from build head I put them into a jar filled with isopropyl. I sometimes just shake it for a few mins and remove, or sometimes let it soak for an hour and use tweezers and shake the object around to wash off resin in tight places. Does anyone know if Isopropyl affects the integrity of a print?
- I rinse in water
- Place in the UV curing box I made

Here is where the printer lives. I always have the orange box closed (which I believe blocks UV light, as it seems to be the same material as the shutter) and I have built a crappy, but effective, sun shield from the window. But I leave the blinds down while setting up and printing anyway.

So back to the failed prints. If the resin is the reason all the prints are failing and let's say we hypothetically resolve that issue, there is the issue of everything being out of scale.

The round cufflink is what I have been using to gauge size. It is supposed to be 18x18mm round and 3mm thick. I had one come out at 17.7 x 17.5 x 2.8mm, so in the scale adjustment menu I typed in those values and after it reported in had made the changes successfully, but when printing again it came out the same size. So I thought, maybe I should ratio those measurements off a 10mm based ratio, but when I had returned to the menu it had already done exactly that. I made a post about this here and in it I learnt from another user that I could project a slice, let's say of a 10mm block, and measure the slice on the quartz to see if the size is right, It wasn't so I tried adjusting the scale pretty radically and there was no change to the slice. So I shelved trying to fix the size ratio problem until I'm printing something successful enough to print.

One other thing is I haven't played with the exposure settings, as the tech set them up for me before my first print, which I was getting 90% success at that point with the solus sample STL's. If there is a guide or post somewhere referring to what all the settings do would be awesome!

Please any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thankyou in advance

[OpedHead]

Here are two more pics of failed prints I couldn't fit in the above post, and a pic of the 'working' resin container I use and strainer, in case these could be contributing

[mongerdesigns]

The top flat print. Is that the bottom of the print? I see marks from the supports. Why not flip the model so you don't have to support the part with the text on it and print flat on the build table without any supports?

The second image, the ring with text on it. You can see how one side of the ring looks like layers are separating. This is a sign that the film is too tight, and/or the resin tank knobs are being over-tightened. Make sure you follow the video instructions on how to install the film, and not over-tighten the film.

When you say "you massage off the cured parts", what do you mean by that? To effectively and cleanly remove stuck pieces from the film, you need to put a pec pad or microfiber cloth under the film and gently push up with your fingers, then use the tweezers to carefully remove the pieces. Be careful not to scratch or damage the film.

I would like to add that we are very close to releasing our own castable resin soon, and that will hopefully make things a lot easier. It doesn't stick to the film, is much stronger, higher resolution, and the success ratio of prints is so far 100% from all the various testing we have done.

[mongerdesigns]

Here are two more pics of failed prints I couldn't fit in the above post, and a pic of the 'working' resin container I use and strainer, in case these could be contributing

Regarding the ring with the four tiny supports on the bottom. Please use the RING SUPPORT button and click on the ring to support the bottom properly. Or add more supports. Looks like the ring swayed a bit during printing because it was resting on those thin supports.

The pendant may have failed because of how deep your text is and the layers of the overhangs that are created are not properly self supported. Tilting that piece more and supporting the back should yield a better print. Also again, you can place that flat on it's back and print without any supports.

[Jewelermdt]

Looks like it would be hard to focus the grid with that setup. Lettering in objects should not be more that .5mm .3 to .4 is best in my experience.

[GSJ_NZ]

I’m not an expert, but I can share some of my experiences.
As soon as I get lines in my prints looking anything like that I’ll check and maybe change the film, and re-check that I’m not tightening the vat too much. Obviously, Monger has already said this, but its easy to overlook when you’ve got repeat fails to deal with.
I put a new film in today, and finished with the vat sitting back on the quartz I got approx. 1mm gap between the vat and printer with no resin (and no thumbscrews). Someone may need to correct me on this, but I find there should be a gap of 0.6mm between the base of the vat and the printer, with 40ml of resin in. It usually only takes about 1.5 turns of the thumbscrews to get to this point, if that.

If I see identical models progressively fail towards one end of the build area, I’ll start by checking the film in that area for damage and re-calibrate the build plate.

As Jewelermdt has pointed out, your setup looks like it would be hard to get clear access to your printer. It looks like it would be difficult to accurately calibrate the build plate without moving the printer.
With the build plate itself, once you have carefully roughed it up with 40 or 60 grit paper (keeping it a flat, true surface) calibrate it and leave it. Re-sanding it could knock the calibration out.

Another problem that myself and others have had before is the quality of the power supply. It looks like there’s a lot of electrical gear in that room. You may already be using one but a good UPS that reliably smooths the supply is a good investment.
I recall others having major print issues with heaters and/or radiators being near their printers.
Hope some of this helps, good luck!

[OpedHead]

The top flat print. Is that the bottom of the print? I see marks from the supports. Why not flip the model so you don't have to support the part with the text on it and print flat on the build table without any supports?

The second image, the ring with text on it. You can see how one side of the ring looks like layers are separating. This is a sign that the film is too tight, and/or the resin tank knobs are being over-tightened. Make sure you follow the video instructions on how to install the film, and not over-tighten the film.

When you say "you massage off the cured parts", what do you mean by that? To effectively and cleanly remove stuck pieces from the film, you need to put a pec pad or microfiber cloth under the film and gently push up with your fingers, then use the tweezers to carefully remove the pieces. Be careful not to scratch or damage the film.

I would like to add that we are very close to releasing our own castable resin soon, and that will hopefully make things a lot easier. It doesn't stick to the film, is much stronger, higher resolution, and the success ratio of prints is so far 100% from all the various testing we have done.

Thanks for your reply Monger and sorry for the delay in mine.

- Yes that was the bottom of the print where it was supported, but do you notice how terrible the surface quality is? It's supposed to be smooth and flat. I can't flip it to print as the other side is the 'face' of the cufflink and has a lot more writing and the big C cut out.
I tried printing it upright and on a few angles but they seem to pick and choose where they fail. I also tried no supports straight on the table which left a perfect top side, but the stamp and logo on the bottom weren't legible.

I also noticed, printing on an angle makes some objects print skewed and warped in the direction of the angle printed on... I'll attach a pic

- They can't get any looser man as I almost always have the first 20-40 slices make knocking noises after each slice and the tech told me it's because the knobs are too tight. So i progressed through looser and looser runs to the point they are sooo lose (only just engaged) that you can see a visible gap between the installed VAT and the top of the thread and I still get knocking!?
Can i just make a jig to attach to the printer or VAT to manage the distance it can be screwed down to hold it at the perfect tension every single time, considering its sooo important?

- I do exactly that but with a PEC pad and the silicon spatula

- Yes, please let me know as soon as it's ready. I have bits stuck to the film EVERY SINGLE PRINT even on the rare successful ones and it's a fair pain in the ass and massive waste of resin having to filter it every print

[OpedHead]

Here are two more pics of failed prints I couldn't fit in the above post, and a pic of the 'working' resin container I use and strainer, in case these could be contributing

Regarding the ring with the four tiny supports on the bottom. Please use the RING SUPPORT button and click on the ring to support the bottom properly. Or add more supports. Looks like the ring swayed a bit during printing because it was resting on those thin supports.

The pendant may have failed because of how deep your text is and the layers of the overhangs that are created are not properly self supported. Tilting that piece more and supporting the back should yield a better print. Also again, you can place that flat on it's back and print without any supports.

- Thanks for the tip, will do next time, though that button doesn't work, nor does any of the manual support tools. Maybe a reinstall can help this, but I can't find the download for the install. The tech installed the older version over teamviewer and I updated it through the help panel.

- Thanks again for the tips, I think you're right regarding the supports but the ones I printed on an angle, the perspective was out, I dont know how to explain so I'll take a photo of what I mean.

Mark emailed me a Solus made video which was really good and has really opened my knowledge on supports. I wish I saw that when I first got the printer, it would have saved my poor tech and I HEAPS of hours. Is there a place where you have put, or could put, ALL the Solus videos or links to somewhere?

[OpedHead]

Looks like it would be hard to focus the grid with that setup. Lettering in objects should not be more that .5mm .3 to .4 is best in my experience.

Haha nah it's cozy but perfect. I can get complete access over the top and my little sun shield makes it nice and dark and clear to see the laser. The big question, when measuring the grid, is the measurement supposed to be from the outside edge to outside edge of the grid or middle of the grid line to middle?

Thanks for the advice, is that measurement for depth of letters?

[reify]

Hi,

All the videos are linked in this post:

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=104

I'll contact you today to help get this sorted.