Using B9....I cured under two Quans 20w wave length 395nm - 400nm 24+ hrs for sure....then boiled three times distilled water microwave 2 1/2 minutes each time as the cooled in-between. Then Lizard lamp 100w UV for 72 he's easy. I'm attaching pics to show our tree and venting. I blew out the flask before centrifugal casting. Small ring is perfect.This happened twice already....any thoughts would be appreciated .The first three pictures are of our second attempt, while the last picture is our first casting.
JUST A THOUGHT.... Should the large ring been sprued at the larger part of the ring?
My (failed) castings w/SolusCast
- Jewelermdt
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Re: My (failed) castings w/SolusCast
Like to know that also. I wonder if the big vent you have attached sucked gold away as it started to cool down.
Re: My (failed) castings w/SolusCast
Dstonic wrote:Using B9....I cured under two Quans 20w wave length 395nm - 400nm 24+ hrs for sure....then boiled three times distilled water microwave 2 1/2 minutes each time as the cooled in-between. Then Lizard lamp 100w UV for 72 he's easy. I'm attaching pics to show our tree and venting. I blew out the flask before centrifugal casting. Small ring is perfect.This happened twice already....any thoughts would be appreciated .The first three pictures are of our second attempt, while the last picture is our first casting.
JUST A THOUGHT.... Should the large ring been sprued at the larger part of the ring?
One big IMO to cover this whole post. Just my 2c.
Will mention this for the last time but I do not believe there is any other way for heavier items in B9 resin to be cured all the way through than deep heat in the furnace. Toaster oven does not do it nor does 24 hours under lights from these photos. I do not have these type of issues with B9 Cherry or Emerald with deep heat curing.
If you really want to use that loop vent method then the loop does not have to be that heavy. You are just asking for metal draw issues as Jewellermdt wrote. You only need the loop big enough to shoot compressed air into the larger volume of the ring and out the main sprue.....air in the smallest hole and ash out the largest.
You want to shoot the compressed air into the flask and then return it to heat over time. This will do two things, return the flask back to true temp and also burnout any ash that is still inside and now loose. IF (that is a question/if...not clear from you post when you flushed the flask) you blew the flask out inbetween the oven and the casting arm then god knows what temp the inside of the flask was when you cast.
I don`t like that loop method and do not use it.
Big ring like that when I centrifugal cast I like centre so that gravity as much as possible is sending the metal evenly as possible. Also on that angle you have it one side of your ring is getting hotter during burnout than the other. In the centre it gets heated evenly which I feel is important for big resin rings in small flasks. Too close to the walls can cause issues. I do not cast heavy and light items like that on the same tree nor at the same metal or flask temperature.
What was in the cavities before you cleaned it out?
My first guess looking at the photos is uncured resin and burnout problems especially if the inside of those cavities was pretty black after devestment.
cheers,
Sochin.
- M-Williams
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Re: My (failed) castings w/SolusCast
This has to do with your spruing strategy. put the gent's ring alone vertical on a cylander and it would cast flawlessly. Marc.
Re: My (failed) castings w/SolusCast
Thanks Mark...I'll do just that. Appreciate the help.
Re: My (failed) castings w/SolusCast
Jewelermdt wrote:Like to know that also. I wonder if the big vent you have attached sucked gold away as it started to cool down.
I looked at it pretty close and I believe I did have a good cast....may have been too thin of a wall at the area where I got the voids when I hollowed out the ring on CAD to save on gold. Studying the ring further under my scope was a great cast throughout including the other ring in the photo....no porosity or trash noted. I did blow out the flask with 4-5 psi air into the small vent line attached to the ring. No ash noted coming out and went back into the oven to heat soak before casting ( about 2 hours). Without having oven heating the resin model I'm feeling I did indeed get a good burn out despite the void noted...again I do believe that was from too thin when hollowing out when I CAD the model.
Can't thank all of you guys for the comments.....it's a on going learning thing for all of us still.
Re: My (failed) castings w/SolusCast
Dstonic wrote:again I do believe that was from too thin when hollowing out when I CAD the model.
I thought the ring was solid. If that top is hollow and this circle is supposed to be open then it appears the investment inside the ring has shifted. That is.... it snapped at the circle area and then moved during spin and messed the wall thickness up.
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