Reify3D Forum

Hello.
I'm getting great results out of the SolusProto resin, but the company responsible moulding the prints in rubber and spin-casting them in pewter is having trouble. The prints are inhibiting the rubber curing. I think this may be due to sulphur in the resin.
Is this the case? Has anyone else got any experience with this problem?
I have been able to mould the prints in condensation-cure RTV silicone myself without issue, but this silicone is not prone to inhibition.
Any help would be very much appreciated.

A few things you can do.

Use a platinum base silicon mold.

Heat treat the prints after UV curing. Either in boiling water for about an hour or low temperature oven (200F) for about an hour.

You can also dip the prints in a barrier liquid before molding.
http://protoproducts.com/Catalog.php#!/ ... y=14185011

I use Castaldo LiquaCast®Long-Life and i get the smoothest waxes. SolusProto is the best for that, such quality smooth prints. Just tap your prints with talc powder after you have UV cured it (i do around an hour). Just put baby powder or talc powder used in jewelry inside a handkerchief and tap your print, then blow off the extra powder from the print. Carefull not to remove the powder when you are handling prints with your hands. Haven't tried VLT but with high temperature (150 Celsius) molding rubber for me is not possible. I get skin cracks.

Hi Ben,
Making molds with Solus Proto can be extremely challenging task.
The only solution, and when i say only i mean it, i tried everything, is wetting the prints with think liquid soap solution, and blow it dry with compressed air.
It works flawlessly with low temp silicone.
Another problem with proto is that it cant stand high temps, it should be vulcanized up to 100-110C.
I used to spin cast but i forgot what was the vulc. Temp of natural rubber, but i think it was too high for proto.
Regards

Thanks all. I should note that this is for miniature production, not jewellery.

Monger- It is interesting that you recommend platinum-based (addition-cure) silicone, as this is usually more easily inhibited by the presence of moisture, sulphur, etc. than tin-based (condensation-cure) silicone.
I will try heat-treating them. What is the reasoning behind this approach?

Chalamba- I assume you mean the only solution for spin-casting mould discs? I have had no trouble at all with tin/condensation RTV for use with polyurethane resin casting, both with and without wax release. I was previously assured that temperature wouldn't be an issue (before I bought the Solus).

I am trying to get more information on the mouldmaker's process and materials. I'll report back when I know more.

Word back from the mouldmaking company is that cure-inhibition isn't actually the problem, despite that being previously mentioned (I think the person emailing had not confirmed with the actual mouldmaker). The masters are actually sticking to the mould rubber and, presumably, tearing it. Vulcanisation is at 100-110 centigrade.

Just do what i told you above.

Ben @ Mastercrafted wrote:Hello.
I'm getting great results out of the SolusProto resin, but the company responsible moulding the prints in rubber and spin-casting them in pewter is having trouble. The prints are inhibiting the rubber curing. I think this may be due to sulphur in the resin.
Is this the case? Has anyone else got any experience with this problem?
I have been able to mould the prints in condensation-cure RTV silicone myself without issue, but this silicone is not prone to inhibition.
Any help would be very much appreciated.

Maybe someone can answer wich resin is the best for mould vulcanized rubber?

Maybe curing or making a little bit elastic to not crack?

After some time, the mouldmakers came back and told me they had solved the problem. When I asked for details as to how, they failed to respond to my email at all. Unfortunately, it is an industry full of companies which don't like to share, presumably in order to keep a competitive edge.

I should note that, when making moulds from RTV tin-based/condensation-cure silicone, the first couple of casts are sticky. Using a wax barrier spray has completely solved this for me.

Ben @ Mastercrafted wrote:After some time, the mouldmakers came back and told me they had solved the problem. When I asked for details as to how, they failed to respond to my email at all. Unfortunately, it is an industry full of companies which don't like to share, presumably in order to keep a competitive edge.

I should note that, when making moulds from RTV tin-based/condensation-cure silicone, the first couple of casts are sticky. Using a wax barrier spray has completely solved this for me.

Thanks for sharing