FTD deep black, uv filter and profile questions

[Deadsculpt]

Hi

Here is my first post on this forum.
I have recently bought a Solus and am looking forward to test it with the FTD deep black resin, i had many nice prints (all wargame miniatures) done on commission with this resin before buying the printer myself, the great surface quality achieved by the printer with this resin is what convinced me to buy it and seemed the right choice to start learning the process, price is on the cheaper end too.

My questions are:
-From what i know and also read on this forum, FTD resins are much "faster" than others, my guess is that i might not need to remove the UV filter from the projector (Infocus IN8606HD), can somebody please confirm this?
-Does anyone have a profile to share for this specific resin?

Thanks!

[mongerdesigns]

Yes, leave the uv filter on for that resin.

[Deadsculpt]

Perfect, thank you!

[reify]

Hi,

Lars was printing for you? If I remember correctly the exposure time was something crazy like 700 or 800 ms.

Maybe I should offer smaller bottles of our SolusProto resin so more people give it a try. It's really a special resin.

[Deadsculpt]

Hi Mark
Yes he was, I will probably try the solus resin in the future once i have a basic understanding of things, smaller bottles is a great idea for sure!

[Huebee]

Hi Marco,
my print settings for the "FTD Deep Black" are for the CW Software that i am still printing on. For the prints i removed the the UV-filter. All your prints that i have done are without UV filter.
My Profile for 42xy :
[img][IMG]http://my.jetscreenshot.com/demo/m_20161005-bm8i-101kb.jpg[/img][/img]
For the smaller buildplat i think i used:
[img][IMG]http://my.jetscreenshot.com/demo/m_20161005-gvzd-103kb.jpg[/img][/img]

In the moment my Solus dedicated Laptop, with all the profiles, is out for repairs. In two weeks i can let you know for sure. But try these settings i am pretty sure that you will get good results.

[Deadsculpt]

Thanks a lot or sharing Lars!

I am really surprised to find out you have removed the UV filter, i might need to do the same then, i thought all FTD and MakerJuice resins required the filter not to be removed..guess trial and error is the only way to find out.

[Sebastien_Lani]

Hi

I had also removed the UV filter. My lamp is maybe close to its life end but I had to expose about 2800ms with 42xy.

I'm prefering using SPOT-A HT with black pigment than the FTD... I don't know if there is a big difference in term of material properties like hardness or max temperature supported.

Best
Sebastien

[Deadsculpt]

After trying with the filter removed i had the resin stick to the film and the film glued to the quartz, a pretty annoying mess..luckily i only damaged the film, but it was my second time using the printer so i feared for the worst
I can't really prove that what happened has been caused by the filter being removed, it seems to be likely though.
Both Mark and Monger told me to use the FTD deep black with the filter on, i also contacted FTD to be sure, and they told me all their resins need to be used with the filter on.
I am too much of a beginner to experiment any further with settings that are not advised.
Will look into the Spot material option as well, thanks for sharing that.

[Sebastien_Lani]

Or if you can accept orange color you can directly go for the solus proto resin.
It will save you a lot of time.

In any case be careful of the film. I saw your post and the film was certainly damaged.

Good luck
Sebastien