z axis bleed mid layers??

[manakawari]

im actually at 1800 down from 2800..i know monger suggested 1000 but i figure i added more pigment than i think he knows i did so i didnt want to go down that low without trying some exposures inbetween.

based on what youre seeing now, do you still think 1000 should be the next attempt?

also, when attempting to get fast resins like makerjuice g+ to work on the solus, while trying to sqweeze out the best possible resolution, is it generally better to try more pigment or a faster exposure? i assume they both try to prevent overexposure, i was just wondering if there was a general consensus that one is better for detail preservation than the other...im just wondering should i still be trying to lower the exposure or would perhaps keeping this exposure and adding more dye be better.

[mongerdesigns]

I may be wrong, but I think adding more pigment stops Z bleed and exposure time controls XY bleed.

[manakawari]

if thats true maybe i should try more dye first? it appears to still be showing slight z axis bleeding...next test will be more dye and exposure at 1300 i guess..thanks for the help!

[reify]

In my experience, adding more pigment/dye is much more effective at reducing bleed than lowering the exposure time. But...it is definitely possible to add too much, so best to lower the exposure with what you have now to see first.

I remember preferring Makerjuice SF over the G+.

[manakawari]

yea the g+ is a much much much faster resin for sure...but i bought two bottles and the g+ is the white one and its white that i desperately need to find a solution for...my plan going forward is to use solus proto resin for the majority of my prints where color is not an issue and ill use the white G+ for when i must have white...this resin is cheap as hell and based on my most recent test last night, when i significant amount of pigment is added it certainly prints nicely, but what im finding , and i dont know if its because i added so much pigment ( i ended up adding the entire container of pigment to the entire bottle of G+) i dont even know what the exact concentration is but at least that makes it easy..lol, no measuring required, just buy one bottle of white resin and one bottle of white pigment and mix them both together) but what im finding, is that once a print is complete, the remaining resin in the vat seems to be spoiled or ruined, no amount of straining or mixing will salvage the remaining resin...this unfortunate fact makes using the resin more work because the vat needs to be cleaned after every print as well as killing any cost benefit by needing to toss a good percentage of left over resin after every print. so the low cost is pretty much worthless since you end up throwing out half your resin

id really like to find a better quality white resin, is anyone aware of one?

[manakawari]

here are the most recent print, its getting clearer but im not sure if i can do any better with this resin, i mean, after lowering the exposure and adding slightly more pigment, its certainly clearer and the text is clearer, but when i look at the supports, they are all thin, smooth and flawless, this is making me believe that i am pretty much at the correct exposure and any remaining lack of text detail is a result of the resin ...am i correct in thinking this? i mean, aside from me wishing the text was slightly clearer, im not noticing any, not a single other area , that are showing signs of over exposure.

Tonight ill try to lower the exposure a tiny bit more just to see if i can squeeze out the final bit i want.

The STL is certainly clearer so its not the file.

[mongerdesigns]

It's getting there, but still can get a lot sharper. I think the problem may be that those resins are not really designed for high resolution printing in the first place. Meaning what thickness are you slicing at? Probably they max out at 50 micron thickness. Adding pigment and lowering the exposure can help to some degree. You're trying to use a cheap resin and achieve the same results as with SolusProto resin? That's not going to be possible.

[rkundla]

James Kao is a pretty knowledgeable guy over on the Kudo 3D forum, and someone else was having problems with overexposure using FTD Snow White resin. This is what he said about bleeding:

Unfortunately, there's no really good way to mitigate this and still stay white.

The problem here is that the photoinitiator in the resin is sensitive to visible light wavelengths, and white pigment scatters all visible light wavelengths, including curing spectrum ones. That bounces curing light all over and creates light bleed.

If you really need to print clear or white, the only thing I have found that works is to use Autodesk PR48 resin, which uses a photoinitiator which is more selective and mostly insensitive to visible light. That makes the UV blockers sufficient for preventing light bleed without affecting the visible color of the resin.

This resin, consequently, requires longer layer curing times since the photoinitiator reacts to less of the light being emitted.

I am not sure if the MakerJuice G+ has the same difficulty as the FTD resin, but from a physical science point of view, it makes sense.

[manakawari]

Thank you , thats really helpful.i will look into that resin.....im hoping that with enough pigment, perhaps i can overcome this problem to some extent...as you can see im certainly moving in the right direction...last nights print was promising and tonight i have added the last tiny bit of pigment i had left in the jar and i will lower the exposure ever so slightly again..i have a feeling im almost, if not already at the max resolution this cheap resin is capable of but we shall see..