Reify3D Forum

Well. You can use 50% solucast /Emerald as well . I have noticed the prints come nice with minimal support. whereas, with the Emerald, you need to add a bunch of them. that is a real issue and time-consuming process cleaning all the support. Never liked the Emerald, really.

SolusCast printed amazing but I could not get it to burnout clean. Over the years I've learned processes that burnout Emerald pretty well. Give me something that prints like SolusCast and can burnout cleaner than emerald and I'm a happy man.

printcast wrote:SolusCast printed amazing but I could not get it to burnout clean. Over the years I've learned processes that burnout Emerald pretty well. Give me something that prints like SolusCast and can burnout cleaner than emerald and I'm a happy man.

We tried the 50% solucat & Emerald. It prints like The blue and casts like the Emerald. I don't have any picture handy right now But take my word.

That's good but the SolusWax, if I understand correct, is coming out next month.


Your prints are crisp and sharp. Looks great.

have had to hold off with work for a while , Family Emergency , but this is what Iv been working on with the green and soluscast , my testings and experimentations are not quite completed , but I would like if someone is willing to confirm my results by doing this , it will help confirm some results for us all


you will need a hot plate and thermometer and a beaker

BLUE - my experiments show you remove from build plate then into room temp beaker with 900 ML Dis. water for boiling , NO ISO OR ACETONE AT ALL , make sure you find something to hold the pieces down in the water to keep it submerged throughout the whole process , then heat the beaker to 200F ( should take about 30 min. to get to boiling) , then leave boiling for 10 - 15 min. , then disconnect the electricity and allow the temperature to go down by itself to about 120 f (you should be able to reach in and grab the resin with your hands and not get burned ) all this should total about 45 min. tops ,( you have just heat annealed it ) this is meant to relieve the stress of the resin and keep it from reacting with the investment and also doing away with the contaminates that polymers leve after growing , the cooling down it very important because this is when cracks can happen , so don't accelerate this part , be mindful as to what resin your using , some have to be heat treated in different ways , the green and the soluscast aren't made of the same thing , next ISO after the boil for about 5 sec. only , swishing it to remove uncured resin , you can try longer but my experiments show cracking if it is longer , besides the boil removed alot for you already , so for me only 5 sec. , then after its dry , straight to treeing up , no UV or if you want 5 min. UV but not necessary , but be aware , the blue will leave the beaker messy whereas the green won't as much by far, Iv ran several tests for the blue and if iso before the boil , CRACKS ALL OVER , I recommend optima investment at 40/100 with 5 hours or overnight bench sit , 3 hours at 350 f , 1.5 hours at 700 f , 3 hours 1450 , down to cast temp. , wich for me is 800 f


GREEN - less beaker mess - after removal from the build plate , you can ultrasonic it in a polly in ISO for 1-3 min. then rinse ( then put in beaker in the same way as the soulscast from this point ) , room temp dis. water , bring to boil , hold for 10 - 15 min. , no UV or 5 min. UV if you want then tree up and cast , PLEASE KEEP IN MIND , the cooldown is very important , do not hurry this part

A few months back, We got to the conclusion that the only way to cure solucast is the neon UV light. LED UV light doesn't to a ding to the solucast and other resins alike.
unfortunately, the beta release wasn't done properly. I assume that is why they got mixed results with their casting.

I had spoken with Eric from the other Forum and he will be releasing his paper at this Santa Fe symposium very soon , His advice is that heart curing is the best way to cure for casting and hasn't had any fails at all within one year , his test trials are from the B9 resins and waxcast , but I took what was learned and developed what I think a good method is for soulcast using his template for the green , so I did my own research , its very difficult to understand all reasons why , but he will explain it in his paper very detailed , Im not going to try , I just want to share what Iv done in hopes that this will help us all , however in essence he will be saying that light curing doesn very little to help casting , at this point , in trying to get a jump on good casting results I would ask for someone to apply my research to see for yourselves to prove or disprove

http://www.santafesymposium.org/2018-sp ... l-marvets/

May 20-23 , the day after this , his paper will be open for all to read

35% Epic 65% Emerald. Wow ,It is hard to see any line

Where did you get the Epic from please? Thank you.