Hey Guys,
I have printed some models with Easycast HD (brown) resin. Cured it under UV lamp 40Watt and submerged in glycerine. For several hours. After curing the models felt and sounded like plastic. I could not scratch them with my fingernails.
One model I send to a caster. He has no problem with wax, it looks good.
He uses prestige optima and has MC20+ from indutherm as casting machine.
His burnout curve I do not know. I think it is standard curve for wax.
Now the resin model I send him came back 1 side looked good. While the otherside had surface pits. But no deeper porosity. So I assume it is from the burnout or me not curing enough/wrong.
Is my curing wrong? What can I do to improve the castings?
Casting and Curing Tips for Easycast HD
Last edited by Kokos on Sat Jan 11, 2020 2:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Casting and Curing Tips for Easycast HD
Here some pictures taken through a loupe. As you can see one side looks pretty good. Otherside is a pity party ![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
Re: Casting and Curing Tips for Easycast HD
Where was your print located on the main sprue? Is the burnt side on the outside of the flask or more towards the interior?
Re: Casting and Curing Tips for Easycast HD
Sadly I do not know where it was located. I did not do the casting myself.
My suspicion is that the bad part was the lowest part of the model. So all ash fell to that side. But I might be wrong.
You think is is from overheating in the flask that caused this?
My suspicion is that the bad part was the lowest part of the model. So all ash fell to that side. But I might be wrong.
You think is is from overheating in the flask that caused this?
Re: Casting and Curing Tips for Easycast HD
Hard to say. In the past, when I saw brown it was due to incomplete combustion of the resin, like a residue, not necessarily ash, but other byproducts like nitrogen dioxide or something.
I cast in my studio and I have burnouts do weird things even though I am using the same program on the kiln, the same mixture of investment to water, etc.
I cast in my studio and I have burnouts do weird things even though I am using the same program on the kiln, the same mixture of investment to water, etc.
Re: Casting and Curing Tips for Easycast HD
Thanks rkundla. I will keep on trying. My curing has to be good. After a couple hours in glycerine under UV. Turning every so often.
I was planning on printing a bunch of the same model. Curing together and then sending them to different casters. And see what they make of it.
Then I get a way of comparing casters. And know if nobody has a perfect cast that it must be something else.
I was planning on printing a bunch of the same model. Curing together and then sending them to different casters. And see what they make of it.
Then I get a way of comparing casters. And know if nobody has a perfect cast that it must be something else.
Re: Casting and Curing Tips for Easycast HD
Kokos wrote:Thanks rkundla. I will keep on trying. My curing has to be good. After a couple hours in glycerine under UV. Turning every so often.
I was planning on printing a bunch of the same model. Curing together and then sending them to different casters. And see what they make of it.
Then I get a way of comparing casters. And know if nobody has a perfect cast that it must be something else.
I think your curing time is solid, I usually only have mine UV curing in glycerin for 30 minutes to 1 hour and castings have been great. Just make sure after curing that you re-dip in clean Iso alcohol and rinse under warm water to get all of the glycerin off. The model should have a matte brown look to it and not have any shiny spots. When I have tried casting and the model had glossy places, those places had a rough surface similar to what yours looks like.
Current burnout that I use:
300F for 3 hours
700F for 1 hour
1350F for 5 hours
1100F for 1 hour (Casting Temp)
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