Casting SolusCast

[A.Joa1]

Hey Kenny,

thanks for stepping in and confirming the vacuum oven thing. It is your post that i remember. I read the paper about 8 months ago and after some time i read your post in the forum which was one more proof that the theory was valid.

So we are again back to " is all about the curing". That is why i asked how the heavy lion head pendant with the crown shown in the promotional videos for SolusCast was cured. That is a very heavy peace and from the video it looks that SolusCast was casted flawlessly.

One other thing that makes me believe that SolusCast is different than Emerald as far as curing is concerned is that, even though the small B9 curing unit and the Junction3d curing unit are identical in terms of wattage and frequency, B9 recommends " cure time: Small models 2-3 minutes. Large models 5-10 depending upon thickness and size" but Emil recommends for SolusCast to be cured with the Junction3d curing unit, 1-2 hours for normal pieces and 3 hours for thicker pieces.

I am getting the Junction3d curing unit and a vacuum oven in an effort to lift this curse once and for all.

Kenny, it would be much appreciated if you post your casting results of SolusCast cured with vacuum oven and UV

[printcast]

First let me say, I'm impressed! You are a man of your word. Sorry about the boiler and hope that you are all squared away and back to running.

Absolutely none of this was done to blast SolusCast. I want Solus to succeed. In almost every post I have said Solus make the best machine in the class and for that matter out-classes much more expensive machines. Solus resins also print smoother than any other resin. I am a 100% Solus supporter. As a 100% Solus supporter why would I want anything other than success for SolusCast? My string started with being extremely happy with SolusCast using Turbo mode. That was my first post on SolusCast. Then the question was does it cast as well, and pics will come good or bad. My experience is there was a 100% failure rate.

As far as casting SolusCast, there hasn't been any well documented successful prints pics from wax tree to cast tree. Some have said they tested SolusCast and have had successful cast with SolusCast but haven't shown any pics as I did with the exact process for how they got that result. For taking the time to figure out how to get SolusCast to cast, that should all have been done with exact processes for success.

If you want the SolusCast, I will be very happy to get $200 for it. There have been maybe 10 rings printed so its virtually a full bottle. So that's actually a very good deal. It's a $300 bottle for $200.


paypal jljr99@gmail.com

[Storen]

Hope this helps someone, I'll be casting my first SolusCast model later this week and will report my results here for sure.

Definetly it will, thanks much Kenny!

So we are again back to " is all about the curing".

I noticed every time I see this line someone is suggesting adding boric acid to stiffen the investment as well. So I would say "it is all about not braking the investment during resin expansion". While it may be unnecessary in small number of cases using high-end equipment, both in combination seem to provide majority of the users with successful results.
I've been testing 8 different tastable resins lately. Neither of the brands mentioned boric acid or heat curing in their documentation.

the small B9 curing unit and the Junction3d curing unit are identical in terms of wattage and frequency

No, they use different UV sources. The Junction version is specified with 8.0 mW/cm². The B9s is 5 times higher with 40.0 mW/cm². However the B9s timer is limited to 10min. which is super annoying.

I am getting the Junction3d curing unit and a vacuum oven in an effort to lift this curse once and for all.

Are you getting the same Hydrion Scientific model as KennyB? I am curious how some of the low-cost alternatives (in $200-$300 range) would compare to this pro option.

[A.Joa1]

Hey Storen,

i always cast Emerald with boric acid added (2%) to Plasticast (36:100) just to be sure. Also worth mentioning is that my peak temperature does not go higher than 730 Celsius which is quite low. However even with this low peak temperature my fully cured pieces come out flawless (centrifugal casting). This is what makes me strongly believe that curing is everything. Adding boric acid and i think calcium nitrate was also mentioned in a Santa Fe paper if i am not mistaken.


unfortunately the seller of the mini vacuum oven in Amazon does not ship to my country, otherwise i would have bought it yesterday (thanks for the link) just to give it a try before i invest in a more expensive one. i don't see why it wouldn't work since you can control the temperature but without testing there is no way of knowing for sure.

Thanks for correcting me about the curing units. i didn't notice that.

About the vacuum ovens, i found some cheaper ones on AliExpress and thinking of getting one of those.

[KennyB]

Today's update:

The rings cured overnight in my UV chamber with no cracking at all but they didn't feel fully cured. Still had some smell and tackiness.

Put them in the vacuum oven for 2 hours at 200F like I do with the emerald and the good news is they feel fully cured. No tackiness, no smell and they sanded and filed like hard plastic. Contour supports snapped right off easily with no damage. The bad news is they both cracked badly. All the way through the shank on one of them.

So for those considering ordering a vacuum oven for SolusCast, you might want to wait, lol.

I may just have to tell the bossman I need a new cure box but for now, I am probably going to switch back to emerald for this job. The due date is approaching and I have 21 of these to print and cast, I just had the shiny new resin and figured I'd give it a try. The prints are incredible I must say and I'm sure I'll get it sorted out eventually.

Monger: The website says 2-3 weeks lead time on the cure box. Is this up to date or do you maybe have a stock of them to ship out sooner?

[mongerdesigns]

Seems like it broke at the seams. Probably heat related. Maybe try lower temps?

Unfortunately, that is the current lead time for the curing units. But we always try to expedite it if possible.

[mongerdesigns]

Also, I know they broke, but could you cast the well cured broken part with the lettering just to see how it turns out?

[KennyB]

Also, I know they broke, but could you cast the well cured broken part with the lettering just to see how it turns out?

Yes, I will be casting this weekend and will sprue it up and add it to the oven. I am going to try to fill in the cracks with wax on the one that didn't break all the way through as it may be usable anyway. Not out anything if it doesn't work.

When I get the 405nm cure box, I'll give it a go and follow the directions exactly as the casting houses that you used.

[rsaldivar]

Sure , Ill take it off your hands if you've only used 100.00 of it or less , if your ready to give up on it

[rsaldivar]

I have found that heating the blue at 120 f cures well , but I do this after having cured it for 2 hours , I also was getting the cracks , but it seemed to stop when I cure right after growing and less than 150 f for the anneal

another thing Iv been doing is , I use a tea maker Tupperware like container and put the rings in where the leaves are supp. to go and add acetone, about 1/4 of the container ( I saw these containers on the proto products web sight ) and shake about 8 times and then blow with compresses air and I find all the resin disappears , like in the Tex , no more wet looking areas caught in the A for example , I do this as fast as poss. because I don't want to leave them in any longer than necessary

http://protoproducts.com/Catalog.php#!/ ... y=14185011