Here is an image of my first casting with SolusCast.
The silver was SolusCast the 18ky was emerald. A small spot on one prong on the 18ky. fixable
One ring in the silver was good except for a little short on metal. the other was not good, to be fair this design can have the same casting problem in emerald as well.
I will be doing some more casting test.
I did have some issues getting good prints with SolusCast at first, heavy step lines from a new vat with new film. Maube too tight and the ring is hollow so some issue with positioning too.
Just the same burnout that was mentioned so no need to ask. Plasticast
Casting SolusCast
Re: Casting SolusCast
Hi Devlin,
Thanks for the pics.
How did you cure the models?
Thanks for the pics.
How did you cure the models?
- M-Williams
- Solus Master
- Posts:393
- Joined:Sun Nov 01, 2015 4:45 pm
Re: Casting SolusCast
Solucast casts perfect with plasticast all day every day. The one key advantage with solucast,it does not expand in the burnout .Though you must cure prints perfectly.
Re: Casting SolusCast
M-Williams wrote:Solucast casts perfect with plasticast all day every day. The one key advantage with solucast,it does not expand in the burnout .Though you must cure prints perfectly.
Great!
Would you be so kind to share your tecnique, since everybody else is heaving issues?
Kindest regards!
Re: Casting SolusCast
No expansion? That is good to know.
I must have missed it but why was it not mentioned about the product?
Thanks
I must have missed it but why was it not mentioned about the product?
Thanks
Re: Casting SolusCast
M-Williams wrote:Solucast casts perfect with plasticast all day every day. The one key advantage with solucast,it does not expand in the burnout .Though you must cure prints perfectly.
Can you post some pics to give some encouragement about this resin?
How do you perfectly cure your prints?
Re: Casting SolusCast
M-Williams wrote:M-Williams
Yes please tell us the process. I have one SolusCast ring left that I can cast with plasticast.
- M-Williams
- Solus Master
- Posts:393
- Joined:Sun Nov 01, 2015 4:45 pm
Re: Casting SolusCast
The biggest casting failure using any resin is lack of curing. we cure with LED's. our favorite resin by far is cherry. for the cycle you can refer to Archerm method.
Re: Casting SolusCast
so Im so behind in my work it wont be a while till I get around to test casting but because I see so many fail casting I had to try one test cast , but this is brass ( dont think it matters for surface testing )
Yes I used way many spruse because this was a wire setting and I thought every wire needed a feed , would rather wrestle with cutting off sprus than have non fills , another thing is I was too tired to cast at midnight so I turned off the oven and turned it back on in the AM , which is why I think the Flash exists , I totally believe like it was said that every resin has to be cured extremely well to produce the best castings , that said , I will share what I did and what I suspect .
(weeks ago) So after curing I wash in acetone , swish about 8 times or so , then with compressed air blow it off , I immediately UV cure for 1 or 2 hours , then in my oven at 120 f over night , I haven't had a chance to cast in a while with my mishap with the water heater and the model stayed out for a couple of weeks , ( this is worth noting because of what I suspect ) then this mourning I casted and this was my results .
so in another forum someone suggested that aging was the key factor in all resins for perfect results ( still after whatever you do for curring ) ( obviosly the best cure , the better ) annealing was one form of ageing because ageing took to long ( 2 weeks or so and not practical for customers ) and heat may have something to do with ageing which is why microwing was working for some people and that guy who wrote that paper on vacuum curing , he did it with heat too , however I am convinced that aging after curing makes for a successful cast almost every time , in other words fully cured with time all the way to the core of the piece , maybe by a window for the 2 weeks ?
I used plasticast R&R 39 /100 because of all the wire work , ( usually I use 38/100) , I did it with 1.5% boric water ,
bench sit for 3 hours total, after 1 hour removed the base and with a fan hitting the crusible for the other 2 hours
in at 300 f for 3 hours
up to 700 f for 1.5 hours
up to 1350 - 1450 for 3.5 hours
then thats when I turnned it off for the night
but would have waited for an hour or so ( maybe 2 ) down to 850 f to cast , I use a necraft centrifugal , I melt the metal first , then when its almost all liquid I put the crucible in and melt to complete liquid , then let it go
I think the surface is good , the flash because I turned the oven off and on again
hope this helps
oh and I belive that it should be 2 hours curing and overnight in heat , not the other way around , but thats just my guess
Yes I used way many spruse because this was a wire setting and I thought every wire needed a feed , would rather wrestle with cutting off sprus than have non fills , another thing is I was too tired to cast at midnight so I turned off the oven and turned it back on in the AM , which is why I think the Flash exists , I totally believe like it was said that every resin has to be cured extremely well to produce the best castings , that said , I will share what I did and what I suspect .
(weeks ago) So after curing I wash in acetone , swish about 8 times or so , then with compressed air blow it off , I immediately UV cure for 1 or 2 hours , then in my oven at 120 f over night , I haven't had a chance to cast in a while with my mishap with the water heater and the model stayed out for a couple of weeks , ( this is worth noting because of what I suspect ) then this mourning I casted and this was my results .
so in another forum someone suggested that aging was the key factor in all resins for perfect results ( still after whatever you do for curring ) ( obviosly the best cure , the better ) annealing was one form of ageing because ageing took to long ( 2 weeks or so and not practical for customers ) and heat may have something to do with ageing which is why microwing was working for some people and that guy who wrote that paper on vacuum curing , he did it with heat too , however I am convinced that aging after curing makes for a successful cast almost every time , in other words fully cured with time all the way to the core of the piece , maybe by a window for the 2 weeks ?
I used plasticast R&R 39 /100 because of all the wire work , ( usually I use 38/100) , I did it with 1.5% boric water ,
bench sit for 3 hours total, after 1 hour removed the base and with a fan hitting the crusible for the other 2 hours
in at 300 f for 3 hours
up to 700 f for 1.5 hours
up to 1350 - 1450 for 3.5 hours
then thats when I turnned it off for the night
but would have waited for an hour or so ( maybe 2 ) down to 850 f to cast , I use a necraft centrifugal , I melt the metal first , then when its almost all liquid I put the crucible in and melt to complete liquid , then let it go
I think the surface is good , the flash because I turned the oven off and on again
hope this helps
oh and I belive that it should be 2 hours curing and overnight in heat , not the other way around , but thats just my guess
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