Casting SolusCast

[rsaldivar]

didnt fit all in one

[rsaldivar]

this one is the 18k rose gold and morganight , dont know if you can see the color well

[rsaldivar]

forgot to mention that I used trylers dip ( proto products ) before I did my investment , 5 times while on the tree then invested , dont know how much diff. this makes , but thats what I did , thats why you see white spots on the blue resin tree

[CADjewelrySchool]

Thanks rsaldivar. I think Monger or someone posted about this a while ago...That's a good option for anyone casting in-house...I guess if you are outsourcing your castings you could dip your prints in "React-Shun" before sending off for casting
Here's the link to their product page - it's US$85 a bottle.

http://protoproducts.com/Catalog.php#!/React-Shun-–-250-grams-Direct-Casting-and-Molding-Barrier/p/57016857/category=14185011

forgot to mention that I used trylers dip ( proto products ) before I did my investment , 5 times while on the tree then invested , dont know how much diff. this makes , but thats what I did , thats why you see white spots on the blue resin tree

[artificer]

Beautiful piece & cast!
Yep, complete curing is absolute prerequisite for a good cast. I also do a quick spritz right on the tree with rustoleum crystal clear enamel as a backup, it dries very quickly and castings come out with a nice smooth surface. Also using plasticast. Still working through a bottle of emerald but eager to try out SolusCast!

[Storen]

Hi Rsaldivar, thank you very much for finding the time to post this detailed review!

I see you decided to disregard the resin instructions completely. It saddens me to say it, but probably that is the reason you were successful. I don’t know who wrote the instructions and are they following this thread. Hopefully we will see an updated version soon that would reflect the free contribution of the community testers.

I am sure your step by step guide would be invaluable help for many early adopters of this product. It is the first well documented process with successful results.

I have some minor questions. I guess nothing essential, I am just curious:

1. Why you wash with acetone instead of alcohol? Is there any particular advantage?
2. What unit/light do you use for UV curing? It would be nice to know what exactly is the most effective wavelength affecting SolusCast.
3. What unit do you use for HEAT curing? Did you just cook the pieces in the burnout oven?
4. I see some strange surface defects (like leaking parting lines) on the sprue tree and the shank. (Please see the attache picture) Do you know what caused them?

So to recap what we've learned so far:

- Ignore the instructions that came with the resin
- 8+ hours of HEAT curing at 120F (in addition to the UV curing)
- Add a protective layer with React-Shun from Proto Products
- Use top-quality investment designed for resins, instead of general purpose wax casting investment.
- Mix the investment with 1.5% Boric Acid solution instead of water
- Increase the burnout times x1.5 roughly

By the way I contacted JewelryServices to get their opinion on the curing process for SolusCast. They suggested 9hours!!! of UV cure before sending prints to them (3 hours on 3 sides).

So the testing will continue to find a stable solution that would work for the majority of the users. Hopefully the SolustCast developers will join us in our efforts to adopt the product.

[mongerdesigns]

The burnout schedule was developed for us by JewelryServices. Obviously depending on your oven, investment type, etc., you may need to tweak it a little bit.

The 9 hour post cure seems a bit of an overkill. Especially for a strong LED unit. I think they may have meant for the regular nail curing unit, you may need that long. I know people who cure the emerald overnight in those things.

[Storen]

Obviously depending on your oven, investment type, etc.

Yes, the burnout schedule should definitely depend on these factors. Therefore I would suggest for the updated instructions to include "suggested equipment" (with exact specifications) that would guarantee successful results if replicated. I am sure many users would decide to deviate from this and experiment with other hardware, but there should be at least one well documented, proven setup as a reference point.

Would have been great if they took pictures or made some videos, so we know the variables for the process they are suggesting.
Do you know what oven they used for the testing and the burnout estimates?
For the investment I presume it was SatinCast 20 without Boric Acid.

[mongerdesigns]

They didn't say what the oven is, except that it's and electric one and customized for more airflow. I've read on another forum where users modify their electric ovens and actually pump air into them for good airflow (i think using an aquarium pump). The other casting houses we tested I believe used big gas burning ovens, and those don't have issues with airflow from what I've been told.

[printcast]

rsaldivar

I would like to thank you for taking the time to take detailed pics of your cast and share them. If you would message me your address I would ship the SolusCast you purchased immediately.


My oven has holes drilled in and a aquarium pump. Back in the B9 days someone suggested resins need more air pushed through. It seems to work for me.