solus wax burnout

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kostyo
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solus wax burnout

Postby kostyo » Tue Jul 17, 2018 4:32 pm

Hi All

tomorrow I will be 100ml solus wax for the test ... I hope it will to print on the LCD printer.

what is the best burnot process for plasticast?

now I'm using epic M and burnout process 2h 150celzius ramp up at 2h 720 celsius and 1h on 480c and casting ... can i use it on solus wax?

Thanks
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Messerbr
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Re: solus wax burnout

Postby Messerbr » Tue Jul 17, 2018 6:11 pm

http://www.reify-3d.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1180

Ramping straight to 1450 and holding for 3 or 4 hours then drop to casting temperature seems to work well.
artcad
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Re: solus wax burnout

Postby artcad » Tue Sep 25, 2018 10:32 pm

1450 fahrenheit is 787 celsius right?So this works well?
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Ted Broadside
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Re: solus wax burnout

Postby Ted Broadside » Fri Mar 15, 2019 9:28 am

Messerbr,

Can you tell me when you put the flask into the kiln when ramping up to 1450? as soon as the kiln is turned on or when it reaches that temperature?
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Messerbr
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Re: solus wax burnout

Postby Messerbr » Fri Mar 15, 2019 1:31 pm

Ted Broadside wrote:Messerbr,

Can you tell me when you put the flask into the kiln when ramping up to 1450? as soon as the kiln is turned on or when it reaches that temperature?


I put the flask into a cold kiln so it would be in there while temperatures went from 70F to 1450F. Although, we have switched back to using the b9 emerald resin due to shrinkage and printing problems we had with the SolusWax. I would also recommend trying a sample bottle of the Resinworks EasyCast.
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Ted Broadside
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Re: solus wax burnout

Postby Ted Broadside » Fri Mar 15, 2019 1:43 pm

I've just ordered myself a sample bottle, thanks. Don't you get ash left in the flask using the emerald resin? I used to use that and I would constantly get pitted castings from (I presume) ash left in the flask, that's why I tried the Soluswax, but I'm still having a few problems with that.
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Messerbr
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Re: solus wax burnout

Postby Messerbr » Fri Mar 15, 2019 5:17 pm

Ted Broadside wrote:I've just ordered myself a sample bottle, thanks. Don't you get ash left in the flask using the emerald resin? I used to use that and I would constantly get pitted castings from (I presume) ash left in the flask, that's why I tried the Soluswax, but I'm still having a few problems with that.


With the b9 green you just have to cure it a lot and then it casts pretty well. The process we've been using has been to:
- put prints in distilled water and microwave for 3 minutes, rest 15min, and repeat 3-4 more times
- UV cure 405nm light in distilled water in a clear container
- Invest with Plasticast 38:100 adding 1% of the powder weight of boric acid to distilled water
- Set for ~1 hour
- place flasks in oven on a 7 hour delay
- Burnout:
- Ramp 40F/min to 1000F hold 3 hr
- Ramp 40F/min to 1400F hold 5 hr
- Drop to casting temp and hold for an hour
- Vacuum flask with shop vac
- Put flask back in oven for 30min to 1 hour
- Cast

There are definitely still things that can be tweaked but the main thing with the emerald is microwaving and a long UV cure. The EasyCast resin seems to print a little better than the emerald and reaches a full cure in UV a little quicker
robin
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Re: solus wax burnout

Postby robin » Sat Mar 16, 2019 1:42 pm

Messerbr wrote:The EasyCast resin seems to print a little better than the emerald and reaches a full cure in UV a little quicker


Are you microwaving it as well as UV curing it?
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Messerbr
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Re: solus wax burnout

Postby Messerbr » Mon Mar 18, 2019 1:49 pm

robin wrote:
Messerbr wrote:The EasyCast resin seems to print a little better than the emerald and reaches a full cure in UV a little quicker


Are you microwaving it as well as UV curing it?


Just UV curing in distilled water for 2-3 hours and it seems to cast just as well as a fully cured emerald model

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